I went to the hairdresser’s today, which was a pleasant enough experience, until they told me the price I had to pay. I did a sharp inhale while trying to get my credit card out of the wallet. I still have to get used to the fact that Berlin is not the half-forgotten and cheap place it used to be when I grew up here.
Afterward I wandered into the Hackesche Hoefe, where tourists faithfully completed their sightseeing programs despite the heat.
The Hackesche Hoefe are a complex of apartment and commercial buildings around eight inner courtyards, which were built in 1906. It’s touristy, but very pretty to look at, especially because of the beautiful tiles at many of the facades.
It also gives a glimpse into Berlin’s history. Many of the older neighborhoods in Berlin have similar architecture. Shops, restaurants, apartments, various commercial enterprises, and even theaters are close together in a single building complex made accessible by passages and courtyards.
From the street these courtyards are hidden, but it pays to be a bit nosy and peek through gateways to sometimes discover wonderful green courtyards or interesting businesses. Not surprisingly, these old neighborhoods are by far the most lively and attractive in Berlin.
PS: On the way back I pondered why it is that places underground are even hotter on a hot day than those above ground… oh hell
My ass hurts and my legs are sore, but it was still a fun excursion. Yesterday, I cycled 20 miles through the countryside south of Berlin, and by the end of the day was surprised that my ass hadn’t fused with the saddle. The distance was a bit ambitious for someone who doesn’t own bicycle pants, but what’s a few days of waddling like a duck in exchange for feeling a sense of accomplishment.
The best part was that I didn’t need to dodge cars and trucks. South of Berlin is something very cool, a network of over 200 kilometers (125 miles) of dedicated paths for skaters and cyclists, called Flaeming-Skate. There are several long circuits that go through forests and fields and pass little villages and towns. There are even restaurants and hotels along the way that specifically target skaters and cyclists.
I had been to the area before, but with a car. While riding in a car you miss 90% of what lies along the way. You don’t see the windmill half hidden by trees, you don’t smell the pine trees and flowers, you don’t realize that the road climbs a 580 feet hill (and on the plus side also descends it on the other side…wheeeeeee!).
And in a car you would just swoosh by the many plum trees laden with ripe, juicy fruits. The area around Berlin is famous for its picturesque country roads lined with trees, often several hundred years old. Some of them are fruit trees – cherry, apple, pear, and plum – and the best part is that whoever comes by can pick them.
Two kilos of plums gathered in my bicycle basket was enough for a whole tray of plum tart … yummy!
