So, I am watching German TV this morning, and one of the perks in Dubai is having a giant satellite dish on the roof that catches three German TV channels (illegally of course). It’s the ninth of November and twenty years ago the Wall was opened. But today, a pretty and young TV reporter stands at Bornholmer Strasse a former border crossing between East and West Berlin. I can see it’s cold, it rains, truly November weather in Berlin. She tells a story about the former border crossing, about the few pieces of Wall that are still standing, and the information post with audio in eight languages (she presses the Chinese button) about its history.
In my mind images of my mother and me enduring border crossings between East and West to visit my grandma twenty-five years ago pop up. None of them pleasurable.
Suddenly, this young reporter, trying to look cheerful despite the early morning rain (did I already tell you that November is not a good month in Berlin?). Says that she is VERY happy to have a guest this morning (camera moves a little to the left) the former sergeant (or was he general, and truly who really cares?) of the border crossing.
I am thinking… WTF?
Close up of a very spritely looking seventy-plus year old with white hair in dark green anorak (he still likes army colors).
Pretty reporter asks green anorak “What happened twenty years ago?”
All I could think of was again “WTF?”
Not enough that this cowardly career asshole is obviously enjoying a cushy state pension, he gets invited to comment to an anniversary that should have nothing to do with him.
While I looked around for the remote control to put an end to this farce, I am thinking… how can you… how in the world can you interview this guy… without throwing up on his army green anorak?
She looked younger than me, probably she never had to endure a East-West border crossing? Why? WTF? Why?
I stood on the Wall twenty years ago. It was like a dream then and it is like a dream now. I will never forget the joy and wonder when my teenage world came to an end. And I will never forget the totalitarian regime my grandma had to endure. Never forget my visits to see her. And the terrible border crossings.
My grandma was so beautiful. She had this wonderful wise smile. Unfortunately, she died four years too early to see it, but I think she would have been very happy.
Twenty years ago my English teacher at school was a little late. We sat around in front of the class room. We were not really surprised that he was late. He was someone who enjoyed the finer things in life, and eight 0′clock in the morning was not his most favorite time. Still, we loved him, because he was a a very good teacher (“You are not learning for the next test, but for life!”), and he loved Shakespeare.
He turned up half an hour late.
We: Mr. Streetcastle! (that was Mr. Strassburg’s English name) Why are you late again?”
He: Haven’t you heard?
We: No, what happened?
He: The Wall is open!
We (stunned with open eyes and mouth)
He: I can’t believe that you haven’t heard! I was up all night. I was in East Berlin with my bicycle. Everything is going to change now!
Of course we saw the many East German people in Hungarian embassies, of course we saw the many people walking through East German streets demonstrating, of course we loved Mr. Gorbachev, but somehow the ninth of November still came as a surprise.
We spun dreams of a wonderful future with Mr. Streetcastle for an hour or so, afterwards we sat through the rest of the school day, then wen went home to our families, and then most of us went to the Wall to see thousands and thousands of East Berliner to stream to West Berlin.
In the evening, my boyfriend and I tried to cross to East Berlin at Checkpoint Charly. Checkpoint Charly was one of the most famous border crossings between East and West Berlin, but West Berliner were not allowed to use it. It was reserved for Americans, foreigners etc. but we thought on this day, surely we could cross there, in the middle of Berlin, to the other side, to the heart of Berlin?
No. A green uniform stopped us. We took the underground train to another border crossing.
In the twenty years since then, a lot of people had to adjust their hopes, and change didn’t come easy for many of them. But hearing the many dreadful stories of East Germans trying to find freedom in their country and not getting it until twenty years ago made it all worthwile.
It’s a true day of celebration for Germany. And I hope you have a smile on your face and remember the joyful pictures you saw on TV that day, twenty years ago.
I went to the hairdresser’s today, which was a pleasant enough experience, until they told me the price I had to pay. I did a sharp inhale while trying to get my credit card out of the wallet. I still have to get used to the fact that Berlin is not the half-forgotten and cheap place it used to be when I grew up here.
Afterward I wandered into the Hackesche Hoefe, where tourists faithfully completed their sightseeing programs despite the heat.
The Hackesche Hoefe are a complex of apartment and commercial buildings around eight inner courtyards, which were built in 1906. It’s touristy, but very pretty to look at, especially because of the beautiful tiles at many of the facades.
It also gives a glimpse into Berlin’s history. Many of the older neighborhoods in Berlin have similar architecture. Shops, restaurants, apartments, various commercial enterprises, and even theaters are close together in a single building complex made accessible by passages and courtyards.
From the street these courtyards are hidden, but it pays to be a bit nosy and peek through gateways to sometimes discover wonderful green courtyards or interesting businesses. Not surprisingly, these old neighborhoods are by far the most lively and attractive in Berlin.
PS: On the way back I pondered why it is that places underground are even hotter on a hot day than those above ground… oh hell
My ass hurts and my legs are sore, but it was still a fun excursion. Yesterday, I cycled 20 miles through the countryside south of Berlin, and by the end of the day was surprised that my ass hadn’t fused with the saddle. The distance was a bit ambitious for someone who doesn’t own bicycle pants, but what’s a few days of waddling like a duck in exchange for feeling a sense of accomplishment.
The best part was that I didn’t need to dodge cars and trucks. South of Berlin is something very cool, a network of over 200 kilometers (125 miles) of dedicated paths for skaters and cyclists, called Flaeming-Skate. There are several long circuits that go through forests and fields and pass little villages and towns. There are even restaurants and hotels along the way that specifically target skaters and cyclists.
I had been to the area before, but with a car. While riding in a car you miss 90% of what lies along the way. You don’t see the windmill half hidden by trees, you don’t smell the pine trees and flowers, you don’t realize that the road climbs a 580 feet hill (and on the plus side also descends it on the other side…wheeeeeee!).
And in a car you would just swoosh by the many plum trees laden with ripe, juicy fruits. The area around Berlin is famous for its picturesque country roads lined with trees, often several hundred years old. Some of them are fruit trees – cherry, apple, pear, and plum – and the best part is that whoever comes by can pick them.
Two kilos of plums gathered in my bicycle basket was enough for a whole tray of plum tart … yummy!
Little Man and I said goodbye to Hong Kong this week. Seeing your previous life packed up wasn’t easy, but luckily we were too busy to get sentimental. The packers needed a whole day to pack our belongings into boxes, and afterwards I was surprised how small the apartment looked. The furniture and clutter made it look big and full of life, after it was gone, it was a tiny, empty, worn-out shell.
This is for you astronaut and for me:
It can hold a pregnant woman in labour.
Yesterday, little man and I woke at 2 am local German time. We used the early hour to craft “Cutie the Beauty” for Oma and Opa’s Christmas tree.
She is made out of scrap paper, has wonderful blue wings, and little man is especially proud of her goldie locks.
Santa Claus visited us already, and I hope he arrives at your home in time :). I wish you all a Peaceful and Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy 2009!
Spain won the European football championship, and even Germans think they deserved the victory. Despite the defeat, German fans gave their team a big welcome party in front of the Brandenburg Gate…
It felt good, even just to watch it on TV. That’s what sport should be all about.
Germany beat Turkey 3-2 with a goal in the 90th minute and is through to the final of the European football championship.
I didn’t watch it live – 3am is such an ungodly hour – but from the highlights I saw this morning, it must have been a thriller game. Germany will either play Russia or Spain in the final on Sunday… afterwards heart rates in Europe will hopefully be back to normal.
I am not much of a sports spectator, but I enjoyed following the world cup last year when I was in Berlin, and this year’s European tournament seems to be just as much fun.
Little man and his travel companion (me) are on a quick Christmas tour to visit grandparents all around Europe. Yesterday, grandpa number one served a meat-heavy feast directly from the barbecue. I decided to squeeze in a quick workout on the stepper before another meat feast is served for today’s lunch.
The work-out wasn’t tedious at all, because while I was stepping away my all time favorite Christmas movie was showing. As I was searching for clips on Youtube later on, I discovered that I am not the only one calling it a favorite. The movie has fans all over Europe, and for many it’s a must to watch it at least once during Christmas.
The movie is called Three Hazelnuts for Cinderella, and is a 1973 Czech/East German co-production. It’s by far the best Cinderella adaptation I have seen. Below are scenes with music from the original soundtrack.
The actress playing Cinderella, Libuse Safrankova, also plays in another favorite of mine Kolja, which won an Oscar for best foreign film in 1997, and tells the story of a little Russian boy, who is stuck in Prague with a grumpy old man (who discovers his nice side over the course of the film), while Europe is undergoing massive political changes. Both are wonderful Christmas movies.
Last year for Christmas, I posted one of my favorite German Christmas poems, and this year I wanted to continue the tradition. I started to translate “Knecht Ruprecht” (Servant Ruprecht) by Theodor Storm. To understand the poem, you have to know a little bit about German Christmas traditions, which differ from region to region, and have changed quite a bit over time. “Knecht Ruprecht” is not Santa Claus. He has pagan origins, and when Christianity came to Germany, he was made the helper of Saint Nicholas. While Saint Nicholas gave presents to the good children, Knecht Ruprecht gave bad children a whipping with his rod.
After the reformation, Martin Luther wanted to stop the worship of saints and encouraged the tradition of giving presents to children on Christmas Eve instead of Saint Nicholas Day on the 6th of December. Instead of Saint Nicholas, the “Holy Christ” brought presents for children. Over the years, the abstract “Holy Christ” became the angelic, golden-robed “Christkind” (Christ Child). The Christkind and her helper Knecht Ruprecht made the rounds on Christmas Eve, and brought presents to children.
Somewhat ironically, the Christkind was slowly replaced by the “Weihnachtsmann” (Father Christmas) in Germany’s Protestant North, while the Catholic South continues Martin Luther’s tradition of the Christkind to this day.
Theodor Storm, who wrote “Knecht Ruprecht”, lived in the North of Germany in the nineteenth century. His poem mentions the Christkind and her helper Knecht Ruprecht, who gives whippings as well as presents. No mentioning of Saint Nicholas… he had already emigrated to the US, changed his name to Santa Claus, and taken over the North American Christmas franchise ;).
Knecht Ruprecht
These days, the poem is recited by Weihnachtsmänner/Knecht Ruprechts all over Germany as they enter the homes of little children on Christmas Eve. My uncle (even-numbered years) and my father (odd-numbered years) used to recite it as well. After Weihnachtsmann had made his entrance, he asked my cousin and me whether we had been good, which we always affirmed even if we had been rather naughty…lol. Then he asked us to recite a Christmas poem. Afterwards, Weihnachtsmann opened his large sack and gave us our presents.
To speed up the translation of the poem, I pasted it into Babel Fish, and the result is so funny that I couldn’t stop myself from posting it…
Farmhand Ruprecht
Of drauss of the forest come ‘ I;
I must say you, it weihnachtet very much!
All everywhere on the fir points
I saw golden light flax sitting;
And up there from the sky gate
The Christian child saw out, with large eyes
And as I strolcht in such a way ‘ by finstern the Tann,
There rief’s me with bright voice on:
“farmhand Ruprecht”, called it, “older associates,
Lift the legs and spute you fast!
The candles begin to burn,
The sky gate is opened,
Old ‘ and boy are now
Of the hunt of the life ruhn;
And tomorrow fly ‘ I down there to ground connection,
Because it is to become again Christmas!”
I spoke: “O dear Herre Christian,
My journey nearly to end is;
I am only into this city,
Wo’s vainly good children has.” -
“haste the Saecklein also with you?”
I spoke: “the Saecklein, that is here;
Because apples, nut and almond core
Meal pious children gladly.” -
“haste the rod also with you?”
I spoke: “the rod, those is here;
But for the children only, the bad,
Those meets it the part, the right.”
Christian child flax spoke: “like that it is quite;
Thus go with God, my faithful farmhand!”
Of drauss of the forest come ‘ I;
I must say you, it weihnachtet very much!
Now speaks, how ich’s here inside find ‘!
Sind’s good child, sind’s bad child?
Knecht Ruprecht
Von drauß vom Walde komm’ ich her;
Ich muss euch sagen, es weihnachtet sehr!
Allüberall auf den Tannenspitzen
Sah ich goldene Lichtlein sitzen;
Und droben aus dem Himmelstor
Sah mit großen Augen das Christkind hervor,
Und wie ich so strolcht’ durch den finstern Tann,
Da rief’s mich mit heller Stimme an:
“Knecht Ruprecht”, rief es, “alter Gesell,
Hebe die Beine und spute dich schnell!
Die Kerzen fangen zu brennen an,
Das Himmelstor ist aufgetan,
Alt’ und Junge sollen nun
Von der Jagd des Lebens ruhn;
Und morgen flieg’ ich hinab zur Erden,
Denn es soll wieder Weihnachten werden!”
Ich sprach: “O lieber Herre Christ,
Meine Reise fast zu Ende ist;
Ich soll nur noch in diese Stadt,
Wo’s eitel gute Kinder hat.” -
“Hast denn das Säcklein auch bei dir?”
Ich sprach: “Das Säcklein, das ist hier;
Denn Äpfel, Nuss und Mandelkern
Essen fromme Kinder gern.” -
“Hast denn die Rute auch bei dir?”
Ich sprach: “Die Rute, die ist hier;
Doch für die Kinder nur, die schlechten,
Die trifft sie auf den Teil, den rechten.”
Christkindlein sprach: “So ist es recht;
So geh mit Gott, mein treuer Knecht!”
Von drauß vom Walde komm’ ich her;
Ich muß euch sagen, es weihnachtet sehr!
Nun sprecht, wie ich’s hierinnen find’!
Sind’s gute Kind, sind’s böse Kind?
by Theodor Storm (1817-1888)
I hope you have been good this year… ;)
either way, I wish you a
In Germany, even McDonald’s sells it, and I am getting slowly addicted to it. Bionade is a fermented lemonade made out of organic ingredients and – don’t worry – has absolutely no alcohol in it. And best of all, it has less than half the calories of coca-cola.
I just don’t know what my favorite flavor is, herbs or orange-ginger… lychee and elderberry aren’t bad either. Want to bet how long it takes until one of the biggies buys them out? Gosh, I wish they were listed.
PS: Fireworks are going off… England 1 … Germany 2. What’s wrong Beckham? Don’t know how to bend it ? ;)
PPS: Thank you for the “Danke for 2006”, that was sweet. Next time you win. You deserve it.
